As a textiles student it is easy to get carried away with fabric exploration, but when you must consider things from a fashion/garment construction perspective you must consider the difficulties of working with some fabrics. From discussions with the group, we have decided against various layers of embroidered silk organza on the trousers due to difficulties constructing with so much sheer. We considered using the same silk/viscose velvet, but worried incase it resembled a 'velour tracksuit' due to the sports wear elements of the waist. We decided to use a (more expensive) cotton velvet instead to give a more luxurious and tailored feel.
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trouser toile with embroidery placement ideas. |
We have considered as a group the placement of the embroidery on the trousers, playing with scale and layering. Here we visualised ideas pinning samples to the trousers; this has been very informative to me as an embroidery student, expanding from the limited view of just a sample, and onto the larger context of actual clothing.
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disaster with the tree embroidery |
There is a lot to consider when stitching out with the multi-head on actual garment pattern pieces such as design placement, but also not crushing the velvet with the frame. As Lucia had suggested, Tess and I both began developing an embroidered tree design on the right leg of the trousers on the Bernina, but disaster struck, and the drawing on the water-soluable fabric on top got stitched into the fibres of the fabric. As we had no time to reattempt this, I added another ethos design to the leg, and instead echoed the tree design through the costume using flock print and devore. Quick decision making was key, and I see this as fundamental in the design/make process.
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'cuckoo figure' white thread, on white cotton velvet. |
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layering of off-white thread and coloured design on top, creating the sense of a frantic narrative. |